Dolce Perspective

Besides the romance of the language, the fierce fashion, and the welcoming cheek kisses, what else do we love about Italians? Yup, you probably got it right: the food! Italians are known for their heavenly cuisine, and although it may seem fattening, that is a price we are willing to pay. Although, you may be surprised as to how much healthier REAL Italian food can be. Sure, the meat takes a little getting used to, but food in Italy is so fresh, and it is certainly not contaminated with all the preservatives and dyes that American food is famous for. However, it is not just about the food. Italian cuisine is also about the culture that absorbs the meal. In order to truly appreciate Italian gastronomy in all its fresh delectibility, it is important to first learn how to eat like an Italian.

Let’s start with the basics—when to eat. Although many will tell you that Italians only eat at certain times of day, this is, in my opinion, completely false. If you are hungry, you are hungry. Who says that cultural immersion should make your stomach grumble? Our mediterranean friends do not seem to gain weight because they stick to a strict eating schedule, they probably do not gain weight simply because they eat differently from their anglo-saxon counterparts. When Italians want a snack, many opt for a fruit, which is usually still attached to the vine and can only be found in a grocery store during its actual season. It also helps that the meat was slaughtered a day before it made it to the plate, and that the Italians are not afraid of a little walking. Ok, maybe I slightly overexaggerated on the meat thing, but you get my point. So, what is the general eating schedule? First, there is breakfast, of course.

Oh, breakfast. In Italia, as in most other parts of the world, breakfast is usually from 7:00 to 10:00 A.M. Doctors are known to say that breakfast is the most important meal of the day, but why is it then that in this boot-shaped peninsula, breakfast does not seem to get the appropriate appreciation or delight that it deserves? Breakfast is practically non-existent, acknowledged with only a cafè (known to Americans as an espresso) with a sweet croissant, or similar bread pastry treat. Maybe Italians are more evolved than Americans and have come to terms with the fact that there is no longer time to eat it properly, as Americans still struggle to fit a healthy breakfast into their schedules. The States are loaded with Ihop’s and Denny’s to pay homage to this commonly favorite meal, either to make up for the lack of it or to relish in its goodness—bacon, eggs, OJ, toast, pancakes, syrup, grits, milk, coffee by the gallons—but in Italy none of this exists. Breakfast is down to bare minimum.

However, once in a while a lucky pedestrian may be able to find “American Breakfast Served” advertised outside of a bar or restaurant. Although I have not personally tried these specials, since I usually run into them in the evening, they seem like a decent price for the food being offered; usually bacon, eggs, toast, maybe pancakes. By the way, do not underestimate bacon because it is virtually impossible to find bacon, as we know it, in Italy. The lack of having an option for breakfast as American culture has deemed appropriate, has taken its toll. I have caught myself waking up unusually early (around 9:00 A.M.) to prepare myself a nice morning meal. Fortunately though, lunch is a bit more filling.

Pranzo, which usually includes a nice siesta on the side, is from about 13:00 to 15:00 (yes, the Italians use military time instead of A.M. or P.M., and you are lucky if you find an open convenience store during these hours). A typical lunch usually conists of a cappuccino, juice, or maybe even a wine juice box, with a panino or pizza, especially for those on-the-go or not looking to spend too much. But be careful, panini are not automatically grilled, you usually have to specify that you want the sandwich caldo, or hot. I found life-altering panini in Milan, at a cozy, Irish-pub-type restaurant called Panino Giusto, and giusto it was! They had over 50 kinds of panini, and you cannot go wrong ordering any of them. I actually would order two at once because as soon as I finished the first I immediately craved another one. Besides, there were so many options—how could I possibly choose one? Needless to say, I was there everyday during my weekend in Milan. Luckily, in 2008, the chain made a debut in Rome in the centrally located historic center. Panino Giusto also has other locations in Italy, such as Brescia and Porto Cervo, and even in non-Italian countries, like Istanbul and Tokyo. We can only hope for a couple to pop up in the U.S.!

As for the pizza, it is difficult to find bad pizza in Italy, unless you eat it at the airport. The cool thing about the pizza is that you tell the server, if it is a fast food spot, about how big you want the slice (a hand measurement will do). Then, they weigh the slice in order to give you a price, so you know you are getting exactly what you pay for. Also, resist the urge, as arduous as it may be, to request substitutions. The pizza comes as is, no questions asked. Another interesting detail is how the pizza is cut; these pizza professionals use scissors! At first, I thought it strange. But then, I realized the practicality—why break your arm trying to cut the crust when you can more easily and quickly snip through it? Many find this quite amusing. A popular local spot amongst my group is Pizza Colonna, about three doors to the left of Lepanto metro station. The twenty-something-year-olds that work there are a friendly bunch that know how to make a mean pizza, and there is always a large variety to choose from. Pizza Colonna also has blissful balls of fried goodness called suppli. This concoction holds tomato-sauced rice fortified by mozarella and engulfed by a fried crust. I am practically a suppli addict, and I am not ashamed.

This then brings us to my favorite meal of an Italian day: dinner! First, let me start by saying that whatever plans are created after dinner should be made at least three hours after the scheduled dinner time. This meal is at least a two hour event, between the hours of 20:30 to 23:00 (or 8:30 P.M. to 11:00 P.M.). Do not expect to find one Italian soul, besides the employees, in a restaurant before 9:00 P.M. eventhough restaurants usually open at eight. Also, dinner in Italy is not rushed, and it certainly does not include one plate. It is rather served in slow courses, and each accompanied with a glass of wine, so expect to order the liter jug, and do not feel guilty. The average Italian drinks about 25 gallons of wine each year.

So, to start things off, as in the States, you can always order an appetizer, or antipasti, with the options for bruschetta, chips, eggplant (very popular in Italy), etc. Typically the complimentary bread will come out with the second course, but if it should come out with or before the first, it is said that one can always pick out an American if the bread is eaten before the meal. But, like I said before: if you are hungry, you are hungry. Next, the first course is usually a pasta or even a whole pizza pie, which is not impossible to eat on your own, so do not be discouraged. The crust is made very thin and the ingredients are not heavy; there are a lot of veggie options and the four-cheese is a common favorite. The third course then consists of meat or fish. It is interesting that the meat is always seperate; it never comes accompanied with any other food. This will always be an unanswered mystery.

I asked my Italian host sister why the meat is not eaten with the pasta or rice—she looked at me blankly and simply responded that she did not know. The best meat I have had in Italy, and can be comparable to an expensive meat dish in the United States, has been in Piazza San Lorenzo at a popular spot called Porca Vacca. The beef is inexpensive, succulent, and savory. Customers can order the meat with various seasonings, but it is important to note that in most restaurants the meat is simply cooked medium, there is usually no option on how it is done. To top off the meal, but before reaching dessert, Italians will eat a salad. This may seem strange but it feels nice finishing a heavy start with something light and refreshing. Oh, and by the way, Ranch dressing is never an option, although the balsamic comes highly recommended if offered. Finally, complete your meal(s) with a palatable dessert and a coffee.

All these rules that accompany the gastronomical aspect of Italian culture may seem a bit daunting, however it is truly a lifestyle. I have been living in Italy for three months and I have grown to love it—I feel healthier, more active, and I have slowed down to actually appreciate and savor the food I eat, even when I am on the go, as though each bite is somehow different from the first. In fact, adopting some of these “eccentricities”, such as the scissor pizza-cutting or salad at the end of the meal, could begin an interesting new perspective on life. Italian dining is not simply a matter of eating good food, the culture that encircles this cuisine creates an experience for both the diner and the taste buds.