Thursday, March 26, 2009

Trains on a Boat

Me: “This is taking forever. I hope we get there on the scheduled time.”

Katie: “Well, this is included in the time.”

Me: “Why aren’t we moving?!”

Katie: “We are on a boat.”

Me: “When are we going to start moving?”

Katie: “We are!”

Me: “Oh...” (confused face)

Katie: “That is why we are rocking!”

So that was the conversation Katie and I had during the moment that I was completely oblivious to the fact that our train, including another, had embarked itself on a boat. There are two entire trains on a boat! I had no idea how or when this happend...I hadn’t even fallen asleep. So, when Katie told me this bit of mind boggling information, the affect that took over me, as mind boggling information usually does, was I did not know how I felt about it. Should I be more worried on an airplane than I should be about being on a train and simultaneously on a boat? We are on our way to Sicily and I knew we would eventually have to cross over a small piece of ocean, but I thought there would be a bridge or something...note to self: never doubt the “something”. The lights just went out; great.

Surprises in Praia

The morning before leaving I had a lot to do. Sure, it was spring break, but as usual I left my responsibilities for the last minute. However, everything went smoothly and I got everything done. Then, things took a turn for the worst—I missed my train, and consequently, so did my travel partner waiting for me. So, afer we bought another train ticket (although we later found out this was unnecessary) we were off to Praia, a small beach town in Calabria, about thirty minutes later (not including the extra thirty minute delay). But for some reason, none of this seemed to bother me. I was finally going to the beach, to bask in hte sun and finally not have to worry about wearing a jacket! Upon arriving, around 7 PM, we were in for our first surprise. Wind was blasting that night, comparable to a monsoon but without the rain. It was blowing so hard in fact, that we heard the wind knocked over a tow truck on the highway that then fell on a passing car. I hope everyone was okay. Needless to say, I felt like I was going to be blown away!

When we arrived the Praia train station, Martina, the owner of Onda Road Hostel, was there to pick us up. At first I had imagined an older woman, no younger than 35 at least, but when this beautiful, long haired, 20-something girl introduced herself in perfect English, after easily scoping us out from the other five people waiting, I no longer knew what to expect. We drove through town and turned onto a gravel road lined with private homes protected by barking dogs. Soon after we stopped at one of the house’s front gate. Upon entering we were greeted by a massive, furry dog named Sylia, and we were confused to be standing in the middle of a family’s living room. It was cosily decorated with warm peach colored walls, an elegant floral print in one corner leading to the stairs, buddha paintings, and stone textured floor tiles. Martina lead us up to our bedroom, a private double perfectly situated next to a bathroom and her parent’s bedroom.

“There are two girls staying upstairs. Come and I’ll introduce you.” Thank goodness! We were relieved to not be the only ones staying in what felt to be an awkward situation.

Wednesday, March 25, 2009

Dolce Perspective

Besides the romance of the language, the fierce fashion, and the welcoming cheek kisses, what else do we love about Italians? Yup, you probably got it right: the food! Italians are known for their heavenly cuisine, and although it may seem fattening, that is a price we are willing to pay. Although, you may be surprised as to how much healthier REAL Italian food can be. Sure, the meat takes a little getting used to, but food in Italy is so fresh, and it is certainly not contaminated with all the preservatives and dyes that American food is famous for. However, it is not just about the food. Italian cuisine is also about the culture that absorbs the meal. In order to truly appreciate Italian gastronomy in all its fresh delectibility, it is important to first learn how to eat like an Italian.

Let’s start with the basics—when to eat. Although many will tell you that Italians only eat at certain times of day, this is, in my opinion, completely false. If you are hungry, you are hungry. Who says that cultural immersion should make your stomach grumble? Our mediterranean friends do not seem to gain weight because they stick to a strict eating schedule, they probably do not gain weight simply because they eat differently from their anglo-saxon counterparts. When Italians want a snack, many opt for a fruit, which is usually still attached to the vine and can only be found in a grocery store during its actual season. It also helps that the meat was slaughtered a day before it made it to the plate, and that the Italians are not afraid of a little walking. Ok, maybe I slightly overexaggerated on the meat thing, but you get my point. So, what is the general eating schedule? First, there is breakfast, of course.

Oh, breakfast. In Italia, as in most other parts of the world, breakfast is usually from 7:00 to 10:00 A.M. Doctors are known to say that breakfast is the most important meal of the day, but why is it then that in this boot-shaped peninsula, breakfast does not seem to get the appropriate appreciation or delight that it deserves? Breakfast is practically non-existent, acknowledged with only a cafè (known to Americans as an espresso) with a sweet croissant, or similar bread pastry treat. Maybe Italians are more evolved than Americans and have come to terms with the fact that there is no longer time to eat it properly, as Americans still struggle to fit a healthy breakfast into their schedules. The States are loaded with Ihop’s and Denny’s to pay homage to this commonly favorite meal, either to make up for the lack of it or to relish in its goodness—bacon, eggs, OJ, toast, pancakes, syrup, grits, milk, coffee by the gallons—but in Italy none of this exists. Breakfast is down to bare minimum.

However, once in a while a lucky pedestrian may be able to find “American Breakfast Served” advertised outside of a bar or restaurant. Although I have not personally tried these specials, since I usually run into them in the evening, they seem like a decent price for the food being offered; usually bacon, eggs, toast, maybe pancakes. By the way, do not underestimate bacon because it is virtually impossible to find bacon, as we know it, in Italy. The lack of having an option for breakfast as American culture has deemed appropriate, has taken its toll. I have caught myself waking up unusually early (around 9:00 A.M.) to prepare myself a nice morning meal. Fortunately though, lunch is a bit more filling.

Pranzo, which usually includes a nice siesta on the side, is from about 13:00 to 15:00 (yes, the Italians use military time instead of A.M. or P.M., and you are lucky if you find an open convenience store during these hours). A typical lunch usually conists of a cappuccino, juice, or maybe even a wine juice box, with a panino or pizza, especially for those on-the-go or not looking to spend too much. But be careful, panini are not automatically grilled, you usually have to specify that you want the sandwich caldo, or hot. I found life-altering panini in Milan, at a cozy, Irish-pub-type restaurant called Panino Giusto, and giusto it was! They had over 50 kinds of panini, and you cannot go wrong ordering any of them. I actually would order two at once because as soon as I finished the first I immediately craved another one. Besides, there were so many options—how could I possibly choose one? Needless to say, I was there everyday during my weekend in Milan. Luckily, in 2008, the chain made a debut in Rome in the centrally located historic center. Panino Giusto also has other locations in Italy, such as Brescia and Porto Cervo, and even in non-Italian countries, like Istanbul and Tokyo. We can only hope for a couple to pop up in the U.S.!

As for the pizza, it is difficult to find bad pizza in Italy, unless you eat it at the airport. The cool thing about the pizza is that you tell the server, if it is a fast food spot, about how big you want the slice (a hand measurement will do). Then, they weigh the slice in order to give you a price, so you know you are getting exactly what you pay for. Also, resist the urge, as arduous as it may be, to request substitutions. The pizza comes as is, no questions asked. Another interesting detail is how the pizza is cut; these pizza professionals use scissors! At first, I thought it strange. But then, I realized the practicality—why break your arm trying to cut the crust when you can more easily and quickly snip through it? Many find this quite amusing. A popular local spot amongst my group is Pizza Colonna, about three doors to the left of Lepanto metro station. The twenty-something-year-olds that work there are a friendly bunch that know how to make a mean pizza, and there is always a large variety to choose from. Pizza Colonna also has blissful balls of fried goodness called suppli. This concoction holds tomato-sauced rice fortified by mozarella and engulfed by a fried crust. I am practically a suppli addict, and I am not ashamed.

This then brings us to my favorite meal of an Italian day: dinner! First, let me start by saying that whatever plans are created after dinner should be made at least three hours after the scheduled dinner time. This meal is at least a two hour event, between the hours of 20:30 to 23:00 (or 8:30 P.M. to 11:00 P.M.). Do not expect to find one Italian soul, besides the employees, in a restaurant before 9:00 P.M. eventhough restaurants usually open at eight. Also, dinner in Italy is not rushed, and it certainly does not include one plate. It is rather served in slow courses, and each accompanied with a glass of wine, so expect to order the liter jug, and do not feel guilty. The average Italian drinks about 25 gallons of wine each year.

So, to start things off, as in the States, you can always order an appetizer, or antipasti, with the options for bruschetta, chips, eggplant (very popular in Italy), etc. Typically the complimentary bread will come out with the second course, but if it should come out with or before the first, it is said that one can always pick out an American if the bread is eaten before the meal. But, like I said before: if you are hungry, you are hungry. Next, the first course is usually a pasta or even a whole pizza pie, which is not impossible to eat on your own, so do not be discouraged. The crust is made very thin and the ingredients are not heavy; there are a lot of veggie options and the four-cheese is a common favorite. The third course then consists of meat or fish. It is interesting that the meat is always seperate; it never comes accompanied with any other food. This will always be an unanswered mystery.

I asked my Italian host sister why the meat is not eaten with the pasta or rice—she looked at me blankly and simply responded that she did not know. The best meat I have had in Italy, and can be comparable to an expensive meat dish in the United States, has been in Piazza San Lorenzo at a popular spot called Porca Vacca. The beef is inexpensive, succulent, and savory. Customers can order the meat with various seasonings, but it is important to note that in most restaurants the meat is simply cooked medium, there is usually no option on how it is done. To top off the meal, but before reaching dessert, Italians will eat a salad. This may seem strange but it feels nice finishing a heavy start with something light and refreshing. Oh, and by the way, Ranch dressing is never an option, although the balsamic comes highly recommended if offered. Finally, complete your meal(s) with a palatable dessert and a coffee.

All these rules that accompany the gastronomical aspect of Italian culture may seem a bit daunting, however it is truly a lifestyle. I have been living in Italy for three months and I have grown to love it—I feel healthier, more active, and I have slowed down to actually appreciate and savor the food I eat, even when I am on the go, as though each bite is somehow different from the first. In fact, adopting some of these “eccentricities”, such as the scissor pizza-cutting or salad at the end of the meal, could begin an interesting new perspective on life. Italian dining is not simply a matter of eating good food, the culture that encircles this cuisine creates an experience for both the diner and the taste buds.

Wednesday, March 18, 2009

Bay of Naples

This past weekend (Sat-Mon) was incredible. The program took us on a trip to the Bay of Naples, where you can find the Amalfi Coast and where the Limoncello always flows.

The first day we went to the Archaeological Museum of Napoli. That was pretty cool because we got to see up close and personal all the sculptures and mosaics we saw in text books. We also got to walk into the "Secret Room", where only men were allowed to enter during ancient times because it is a room filled with erotic art. Sex was a big part of ancient Roman society; it was not tabboo for them as it is for us. There was a lot of sexual humor. Afterwards we explored the ruins of Pompeii. It is such an interesting story. For those of you who don't know it, I will summarize:

The Bay of Naples was, and is, so beautiful that it was once for the ancient Romans what the Hamptons are to us. A lot of the towns on the Bay were filled with resorts and villas, it was a get-away from the city. However, Pompeii was a working city, highly populated with middle and lower class citizens. When Mt. Vesuvius errupted in 79 a.d. it was one of the biggest blasts in history, and the mountain literally blew its top off, which is why it now seems to have two peaks. Pompeii was pretty much right next to the mountain when this happened. The ash and pumus rained over the city for about 6 days and destroyed everything. Luckily, 90% of the 20,0000 population managed to escape.

After Pompeii we went to Sorrento, which was where we slept. We went out and partied that night, got Dr. Dawson, the program director, drunk and it was all around a successful night. The next morning, my friend, Katherine, and I took a trip to Capri, an island off the coast of Sorrento. We woke up early, had a filling breakfast, and took the ferry to Capri. We could not have asked for a more gorgeous day. We did not have a set plan except for that we wanted to get to a nice beach spot and just relax under the sun. This little idea took us through an adventure: On our way to find a relaxing beach spot, we stumbled upon a local soccer game. We felt like the locals and stayed there and watched for about 20min. I cheered for the underdogs as usual.

Next we walked through a vineyard resting just underneath a cliff, and after many winding turn finally made it to the "beach". I use quotation marks because the beach has no sand, but rather pebbles, and instead of being a large expanse of sand and water, there was really almost no place to sit or lay except on this little dock. It was really cool though. We were the only ones there except for this old man making a net. We layed under the sun for about an hour and a half. I dipped my toe in the water, yes just my toe, not my foot, because the water was freezing!

Afterwards we got hungry. We took the bus up to Capri, the actual center of the island, and had lunch, while overlooking the island. We then ventured off and found a garden, which was on a cliff, where we sat for about two hours talking and overlooking the ocean. From the cliff we could actually see the spot where we sat at the beach haha. We took the ferry back at 6pm after magical, relaxing day. We had dinner that night and just stayed up talking.

The next morning, Monday, we were off to Naples. The city is so eclectic and it is actually very New York in feeling. Naples is really a city as we know a city to be. It was condensed with buildings, kind of dirty and random shops. Rome is more clean, and although it is a city it is very green. Naples is not green. It was charming though and I would like to go back and really get to know it. The people in Naples are the stereotypical Italians we see in the movies...it was so cute lol. And I think the guys in Naples are probably better looking the guys in Rome...hard to believe.

Tuesday, March 10, 2009

To Those Who Dance Without Rhythm:

**The past couple weeks I have had the privilege to do something I have not done in about three years: read for pleasure. I really enjoy reading and and in the past 3 weeks I have read 3 books and I have enjoyed every minute of every word...well, except one book, but that's because I did not really understand the "comedy" of it and it was a quite troubling story...but I'll move on:

Last night I finished reading a book by one of my favorite authors, and international bestseller, Paulo Coelho, called The Witch of Portobello. A lot of his work is enthralled with symbolism, faith, culture, and the underlying message of finding your own path. Each of his stories is so distinct and beautiful that whenever I feel my life, or the people in it, has taken me by surprise and I no longer have a precise direction, I pick up one of his stories and immediately feel inspired. I feel like Paulo (yes, we are on a first name basis) has written that story just for me, in order to give me wisdom and to comfort me with the assertion that eventhough my life has taken an unexpected turn, I am still heading in the right direction.

So, back to The Witch of Portobello: I have taken a few excerpts of wisdom, inspiration, and simply parts of the book that have given me a sense of self-clarification, to share with you. They go a little something like this...**

"Everything moves, and everything moves to a rhythm. And everything that moves to a rhythm creates a sound."

"Do you know what the word 'ecstacy' means? It comes from the Greek and means, 'to stand outside yourself.'"

"...when I dance, I'm a free [person], or rather, a free spirit who can travel through the universe, contemplate the present, divine the future, and be transformed into pure energy. And that gives me enormous pleasure, a joy that always goes far beyond everything I've experienced or will experience in my lifetime...When you dance, the spiritual world and the real world manage to coexist quite happily. I think classical dancers dance on pointes because they're simultaneously touching the earth and reaching up to the skies."

"We all have an unknown ability, which will probably remain unknown forever. And yet that ability can become our ally. Since it's impossible to measure that ability or give it an economic value, it's never taken seriously, but I'm speaking here to other human beings and I'm sure you understand what I mean..."

"God hid the most important things from the wise because they cannot understand what is simple." (See Matthew 11:25, or 1 Corinthians 1:27)

"In some way...joy is infectious, as is enthusiasm and love. Or indeed sadness, depression or hatred- things which can be picked up intuitively by [others]. In order to improve performance, we have to create mechanisms that keep these positive stimuli alive."

"If we slow down, everything lasts much longer."

"Gradually, though, the anxiety gave way to contemplation, and I started listening to my soul... that part of me had been longing to speak to me, but I had always been too busy. In that case, it wasn't a dance, but the complete absence of noise and movement, the silence, that brought me into contact with myself."

"Why is patience so important?" -"Because it makes us pay attention."

"If your soul could communicate with your brain, you would be able to change even more things."

"It isn't enough to say "yes", you must put your life at risk, and without giving it too much thought either."

"What is a teacher? I'll tell you: It isn't someone who teaches something, but someone who inspires the student to give her best in order to discover what she already knows."

"I can love and respect someone I dislike."

"That was the only time I dared to ask her: 'Why do you love me?'
She replied: 'I don't know and I don't care.'"

"Love is not a habit, a commitment, or a debt. It isn't what romantic songs tell us it is- love simply is. Love is. No definitions. Love and don't ask too many questions. Just love."

In an interview with Paulo Coelho, which can be found at the end of the book, the interviewer asks Paulo: "What is God to you?"

He responds: "God's a verb. God is action. God is - is a verb, yes. You cannot define Him. When Moses asks, 'Who are you?', He says, 'I Am.' He does not say I am this or that or that. He just says, 'I Am.' So I think this is the best definition, you know? He is."

**I hope you have read all of it, but if not, I hope you read this final part in purple. I cut and paste things, rearranging the order so it had a better flow. I'm not going to write more about Paulo, the book, nor his comment because I think everything I just typed expresses everything I want to say. Now, it's your turn to comment. And btw, you'll have to read the book in order to understand the title for this post.**

Thursday, March 5, 2009

The Expulsion of Triumphant Beast

During my philosophy class we read a dialogue, using the same title for today's post, from Giordiano Bruno, Italian philosopher and martyr from the 1500s. Below is the part of the dialogue that I thought was the most interesting: Bruno goes on to explain the vices of each of the astrological signs, as well as the virtues that should replace them. I think you will find this as cool as I do. In order to help give a better understanding of the more complicated words/explanations for some of the signs, I tried to translate what he says and make it easier to read.

Aries: At the former palace of the Ram, you have placed Episcopacy (bishop-likeness), Duchy (qualities of a Duke, or leader), Exemplariness, Demonstration, Counsel, and Indication, which are happy in the area of Respect, Obedience, Consentience, Virtuous Emulation, and Imitation; [you should stay away from your vices, which are:] Bad Example, Scandal, and Alienation, which are tormented in the area of Dispersion, Bewilderment, Apostasy, Schism, and Heresy.

Taurus: Taurus demonstrates that he has been the embodiment of Patience, Tolerance, Controlled, and Just Rage, which are [useful] in the area of Government, Ministry, Service, Labor, Work, Respect, and others. With him depart Unrestrained Ire (rage), Anger, Spite, Disdain, Reluctance, Impatience, Lament, Complaint, and Wrath, which are found almost in the same areas. Looks like someone has an anger problem...

Gemini: Whence depart the Gemini, ascend Figuritive Love (not sure what he means by that...maybe it has something to do with finding you other half since it is a symbol of twins?), Friendship, and Peace, which delight themselves in their own areas; and those banished ones drage along with themselves Unworthy Partiality, which obstinately fixes its foot on the area of Iniquitous (definition: characterized by injustice or wickedness; wicked; sinful) and Perverse Desire.

Cancer: Cancer drags along with himself Wicked Repression, Unworthy Retrogression, Lowly Deformity, and Unpraiseworthy Restraint, the Lowering of the Claws and the Retraction of the Feet from good thinking and doing...which withdraw and keep themselves in the area of Inconstancy, Poverty of Spirit, Ignorance and many others; and to the stars ascend Righteous Conversation, Repression of Evil, Retraction from the false and iniquitous (definition: characterized by injustice or wickedness; wicked; sinful).

Leo: Leo drags with himself Tyrannical Terror (ouch!), Fear, Formidability, Perilous and Hateful Authority, the Glory of the Presumption (ability to assume), and pleasure of being feared rather than loved. [These vices] move in the area of Rigor, Cruelty, Violence, and Suppression, which there, are tormented by the shadows of Fear and Suspicion. [However, your vices are:] Magnanimity, Generosity, Splendor, Nobility, Pre-eminence, which administer within the area of Justice, Mercy, Just Conquest, and Worthy Condoning; and there they are consoled by Security, Tranquility of Spirit, and their families.

Virgo: To join Virgo, go Continence, Pudency, Chastity, Modesty, Shyness, and Honesty, which triumph in the area of Purity and Honor, despised by Impudence, Incontinence (definition: lacking in moderation or self-control, esp. of sexual desire; unceasing or unrestrained), and other mothers of hostile families.

Libra: The Scales have always been the archetype of Expected Equality, Justice, Grace, Gratitude, Respect, and other companions, administrators, and followers, which move about in the area of Distribution, Commutation, and Retribution, where Injustice, Disgrace, Ingratitude, Arrogance, and other of their companions, daughters, and administrators do not set foot.

Scorpio: Where Scorpio used to curve his hooked tail and spread his claws, there no longer appear Fraud, Iniquitious Applause (unjust or wicked criticism), Feigned Love, Deception, and Betrayal, but the contrary virtues, daughters of Simplicity, Sincerity, and Truth, which move about in the area of the mothers. Someone has trust issues...

Sagittarius (my sign): We see that Sagittarius was the emblem of Contemplation, Study, and Good Applause (praising), with [these virtues'] followers and servants, which have as object and subject the area of the Truth and the Good in order to form the Intellect and Will, [from which] are far removed Affected Ignorance and Lowly Unconcern (not taking notice when someone is trying to do good).

Capricorn: This one is pretty complicated, so I'll paraphrase it: You live the life of a hermit, which in your case is virtuous. You seek Solitude, Dissengagement, and Contemplation. This interior life will bring you liberty, in which are not secure Conversation, [Business]...and Feasting (partying, or gluttony). Get out of the public area because it will keep you away from your hermit life, which will bring you Absolution and Liberty.

Aquarius: In the place of humid and distempered Aquarius, you see Temperance, teh mother of many and innumberable virtues, who particularly shows herself there with her daughters, Civility and Urbanity, from whose area escape Intermperance of Affects, with Wildness, Harshness, and Barbarity.

Pisces: Whence, Unworthy Silence, Envy of Knowledge, and Defraudation of Doctorine, which move in the area of Misanthropy and Baseness of Mind, the Pisces are removed, there are placed Worthy Silence and Taciturnity, which move in the area of Prudence, Continence, Patience, Moderation, and others, from which flee to contrary shelters, Loquacity (characterized by excessive talk), Garrulity (synonym for Loquacious, but more like rambling or wordy), Buffoonery (burn!), Levity of Intentions, Vain Talk, Whispering, Complaint, Murmuring. Seems like someone doesn't know when to stop talking, and is fond of gossip.

I hope you found this as interesting as I did. Albeit, I don't really believe in all this astronomical hocus pokus, but it's cool for fun and it always surprises me how things like this can sometimes be very insightful and even correct in some assumptions.

As you may know, Bruno is later tortured and burned at the stake for his many heretical comments. In this particular essay, Bruno satirically attacks religion in general, proclaming that religion is abstract, when it should be practical and applied to real life...or maybe Queen Elizabeth I (the person he gave this text to), as the head of the church and state at that time, did not like the fact that she was being called an "Immodest" Heretic...ironic isn't it?